Beauty of nature wherever you see
Located in NSW, the Warrumbungle National Park has earned the distinction of being Australia's top destination for rock climbing. The park's stunning natural beauty and unique features make it a must-see destination for hikers and nature lovers alike.
The most recognizable landmark in the park is the Breadknife, which stands 90m tall and is a testament to the park's enduring importance and resilience. The Breadknife and Grand High Tops walk is considered one of the best hiking trails in NSW, offering hikers up-close views of the park's iconic rock formations.
Regrettably, climbing on the Breadknife is not allowed due to its proximity to the tourist track. Any individual found climbing on the rock formation may face severe penalties and put the access of climbing in the park at risk.
The Breadknife from a different angle early in the morning
Crater Bluff. Offers multiple alternatives to the "Rib".
Crater Bluff, one of the four prominent spires in the park, features some of the most sought-after climbing routes in the 'Bungles. Although it may seem flat on top at first glance, the peak is actually characterized by deep canyons, the most significant of which is filled with ferns and aptly named the Green Glacier.
One of the most popular routes on Crater Bluff is the "Cornerstone Rib", which is beloved by many climbers who visit the park.
The most popular climb in the 'Warrumbungles' and justifiably so. One of the most striking lines in Australia. Can be safely climbed and descended with a single 70m rope.
The first 90 metres was originally climbed in three pitches but can be done quite safely (and more easily) in two rope stretching pitches (50m rope), including comfy belays. Follow rib straight up.
40m. Move out left around the rib at the little horn and onto the northern face for approx. 5m and then back to the arete (this part is quitre scary and exposed, not for the faint hearted). Up to a large ledge. Approx 3 pitons on this pitch.
20m. Up the rib from here on. The ledges for good belays are pretty obvious and about 20 metres apart.
20m.
20m. Up past 2 pitons at start.
Was originally called 'Cornerstone Rib Direct' but as the direct version is far more popular than the 'original' version, the direct version has taken the name.
Based on the source: https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/warrumbungles/route/12106105
Something to come back for
The start of the access route through the bush is not far from this sign (to the right)
The North Face of Bluff Mountain is an exceptional climbing destination in Australia, with an impressive height and an extensive selection of top-quality routes. However, it's important to note that climbing on this mountain requires a significant level of expertise, as ascent, route-finding, and retreat are all challenging endeavors. Climbing any of these routes can take a full day, if not longer, so climbers should be prepared for a serious undertaking.
For most of the routes on this wall, a double rack of cams ranging from BD 0.3 to 3, along with a single no. 4 and a few smaller cams, would make an excellent rack. Combining this with a single set of nuts and a few smaller hexes can provide protection at almost every placement. Alternatively, a single set of cams, a double set of nuts, a full set of hexes, and some gear placing skills can also make these routes manageable, albeit more challenging. To ensure a more enjoyable experience, climbers should extend almost every placement to within an inch of its life, as many of the routes meander and avoiding rope drag is essential.
One of the most renowned routes on the North Face of Bluff Mountain is the classic "Flight of the Phoenix". It's worth noting that some of the topo lines on The Crag have been drawn from poor quality topos or descriptions, so climbers should not rely too heavily on them and should update them as necessary after completing any of these routes.
The magnificent Bluff Mountain. Much bigger than it seems.